by Walk My Dog - The Dog Walking and Pet Sitting Company
1. Introduction
2. Chose the right collar
3. In the lead
4. Learn to use the equipment properly
5. Older puppies and adult dogs
6. Puppies and submissive dogs
1. Introduction
Does your dog take you for a walk? Does he strain at the lead? Or does your arm ache from gripping the lead with all your strength? With determination you can cure this typical dog-walking problem. It’s time for you to take the lead.
2. Choose the right collar
There are different collars for big dogs, small dogs, puppies, over-excited dogs and dogs in training. They come in all colours, shapes and sizes. But which one is right for your dog? Training your dog to sit, stay, dog show parading or simply beachside strolling – all require the right type of collar.
The buckle collar is the most common - a mini trouser belt round your dog’s neck. Variations on this are the breakaway – a collar which does just that – it pulls apart under great stress, for example if your dog were choking on a fence post. Others have release tabs, snapping apart quicker than you can say ‘unbuckle’. Ideal for young puppies.
Training collars are especially for adopted dogs or older puppies. They communicate ‘no!’ without hurting your new pet. Choke collars may seem cruel, but they harm dogs less than other training collars and are ideal for larger dogs. Used correctly, they can stop your dog from running away, tugging on the lead, or jumping – ultimately keeping your pet safe.
When the lead is pulled, metal prongs around the inside of the collar prod the dog’s neck. Unlike other collars, the pressure is evenly distributed around the collar and not just on the dog’s throat, which can be harmful.
Slip or choke collars form a slipknot, so when the lead is pulled, the collar’s diameter shrinks, allowing swift action to correct a dog's behaviour.
Halters wrap around the dog’s nose and neck for more exact control. Not to be confused with a muzzle which stops your dog from opening its mouth, halters let dogs drink, bark and yawn. Some trainers recommend this for some dogs that respond to subtle tugs.
3. In the lead
Buy a narrow, six-foot leather lead (as other fabric can slide through the hands and cause friction burns on tender skin) with a loop at one end and a sturdy clip at the other. Avoid chain leashes, retractable leashes, fancy plastic leashes, and wide leashes until your pet is under control. Both hands should grasp the leash for maximum control, so it should be comfortable to hold.
4. Learn to use the equipment properly
This collar should fit snugly but not tightly. A rule of thumb is to be able to fit a thumb comfortably between the collar and the dog’s neck. If using a prong collar place the prongs against a tough dog’s neck or facing outwards on a more sensitive dog.
5. Older puppies and adult dogs
Hard-as-nails Rocky the Rottweiler needs different training than sensitive Sue the Shitzsu pup. Consider your dog’s character, before deciding on your training style.
Begin by teaching the dog body awareness – of where you are going. Let your dog wander, before changing direction before the lead tightens. Don’t speak, let him start watching you. As the collar tightens he will start to understand. If your pup streaks ahead and the lead tightens - stop. He will probably turn towards you, loosening the collar. Start walking, but change direction before he reaches the end of the lead. Continue, but add in obstacles on your way. Why not saunter around a lamp post, cut round a car or circle round a tree or two. Cross over the road, or turn right around and retrace your steps - until you have one perplexed pet who has no idea where you are going next.
If this isn’t working after a few days, try the collar tug. This should be a gentle pull on the lead, for attention, not for punishment, it says: “I’m in charge”. Step towards the pulling dog so the collar loosens, then pull the lead suddenly then release it in one smooth move. The collar must tighten then loosen quickly, and whilst doing so walk the opposite way without a word.
If two or three such tugs on a slip collar still doesn’t work do not increase the strength; instead change to a prong collar as continual pulls on the slip collar damage a dog’s throat. Don’t forget to praise your dog when he learns to walk without pulling.
6. Puppies and submissive dogs
Toys or treats are always good bribes for training pups on a buckle lead. Be loud and happy, using any hand movements, noises (like whistling, clapping or even thigh slapping!) to get attention. Puppies are easily distracted, when this happens turn around and go the opposite way, or use a treat as a bribe. Above all your puppy should learn walking close by is fun.
Teaching submissive, or frightened dogs is similar to puppy training, use treats to reward, and coax don’t threaten. Keep things low key and prong collars smooth side facing inwards are often better than chain collars.
Be determined to do it, be stubborn and be consistent. And finally, if you can’t do it – don’t be afraid to call in the dog training clubs and schools for help.
1. Introduction
2. Chose the right collar
3. In the lead
4. Learn to use the equipment properly
5. Older puppies and adult dogs
6. Puppies and submissive dogs
1. Introduction
Does your dog take you for a walk? Does he strain at the lead? Or does your arm ache from gripping the lead with all your strength? With determination you can cure this typical dog-walking problem. It’s time for you to take the lead.
2. Choose the right collar
There are different collars for big dogs, small dogs, puppies, over-excited dogs and dogs in training. They come in all colours, shapes and sizes. But which one is right for your dog? Training your dog to sit, stay, dog show parading or simply beachside strolling – all require the right type of collar.
The buckle collar is the most common - a mini trouser belt round your dog’s neck. Variations on this are the breakaway – a collar which does just that – it pulls apart under great stress, for example if your dog were choking on a fence post. Others have release tabs, snapping apart quicker than you can say ‘unbuckle’. Ideal for young puppies.
Training collars are especially for adopted dogs or older puppies. They communicate ‘no!’ without hurting your new pet. Choke collars may seem cruel, but they harm dogs less than other training collars and are ideal for larger dogs. Used correctly, they can stop your dog from running away, tugging on the lead, or jumping – ultimately keeping your pet safe.
When the lead is pulled, metal prongs around the inside of the collar prod the dog’s neck. Unlike other collars, the pressure is evenly distributed around the collar and not just on the dog’s throat, which can be harmful.
Slip or choke collars form a slipknot, so when the lead is pulled, the collar’s diameter shrinks, allowing swift action to correct a dog's behaviour.
Halters wrap around the dog’s nose and neck for more exact control. Not to be confused with a muzzle which stops your dog from opening its mouth, halters let dogs drink, bark and yawn. Some trainers recommend this for some dogs that respond to subtle tugs.
3. In the lead
Buy a narrow, six-foot leather lead (as other fabric can slide through the hands and cause friction burns on tender skin) with a loop at one end and a sturdy clip at the other. Avoid chain leashes, retractable leashes, fancy plastic leashes, and wide leashes until your pet is under control. Both hands should grasp the leash for maximum control, so it should be comfortable to hold.
4. Learn to use the equipment properly
This collar should fit snugly but not tightly. A rule of thumb is to be able to fit a thumb comfortably between the collar and the dog’s neck. If using a prong collar place the prongs against a tough dog’s neck or facing outwards on a more sensitive dog.
5. Older puppies and adult dogs
Hard-as-nails Rocky the Rottweiler needs different training than sensitive Sue the Shitzsu pup. Consider your dog’s character, before deciding on your training style.
Begin by teaching the dog body awareness – of where you are going. Let your dog wander, before changing direction before the lead tightens. Don’t speak, let him start watching you. As the collar tightens he will start to understand. If your pup streaks ahead and the lead tightens - stop. He will probably turn towards you, loosening the collar. Start walking, but change direction before he reaches the end of the lead. Continue, but add in obstacles on your way. Why not saunter around a lamp post, cut round a car or circle round a tree or two. Cross over the road, or turn right around and retrace your steps - until you have one perplexed pet who has no idea where you are going next.
If this isn’t working after a few days, try the collar tug. This should be a gentle pull on the lead, for attention, not for punishment, it says: “I’m in charge”. Step towards the pulling dog so the collar loosens, then pull the lead suddenly then release it in one smooth move. The collar must tighten then loosen quickly, and whilst doing so walk the opposite way without a word.
If two or three such tugs on a slip collar still doesn’t work do not increase the strength; instead change to a prong collar as continual pulls on the slip collar damage a dog’s throat. Don’t forget to praise your dog when he learns to walk without pulling.
6. Puppies and submissive dogs
Toys or treats are always good bribes for training pups on a buckle lead. Be loud and happy, using any hand movements, noises (like whistling, clapping or even thigh slapping!) to get attention. Puppies are easily distracted, when this happens turn around and go the opposite way, or use a treat as a bribe. Above all your puppy should learn walking close by is fun.
Teaching submissive, or frightened dogs is similar to puppy training, use treats to reward, and coax don’t threaten. Keep things low key and prong collars smooth side facing inwards are often better than chain collars.
Be determined to do it, be stubborn and be consistent. And finally, if you can’t do it – don’t be afraid to call in the dog training clubs and schools for help.
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